Is it a drop? Should I go around it? “Just send it”? Can it be rolled? Will I make that corner after the ledge?

Time to introduce the roll down, a perfect tool for the job.

For context, this maneuver is for intermediate riders to use on slow speed drops/steps/ledges up to 2ft high, on your average grade 3/4 tech trail. It takes much of the content from the last blog post and puts it in a more specific situation. Good position and mobility skills are essential for success - as are solid braking skills.

Rolling something with the correct technique is game changing for increasing control, precision and risk management.

You’ll be surprised at what is actually rollable too - this maneuver eliminates the needless association of small drops/steps/ledges with having to be able to ‘do a drop’, which can impose unnecessary pressure and consequences.

Why roll it? Wheels on the ground allow a rider to control their braking and dictate their line. This keeps you in the driver’s seat and leaves more options on the table before, during and after the feature (e.g. choosing entry lines or arriving at catch berms in control). I really like it for steeper, technical sections that are a bit ‘lumpy’, or on isolated features like rock rolls.

The alternative is dropping off these ledges, which is sometimes mandatory. But when tyres leave the ground, you best be sure about the outcome you’re hoping for because there’s no going back. Granted, sometimes this is mandatory. But if it isn’t, the roll down has a bunch of benefits to help you confidently navigate these sections.

Start small and go slow. I repeat. Start small and go slow. I’ve demonstrated this on bigger features to emphasize the movements for this article. As the size increases, so does the demand on technique, timing and coordination - manage risk accordingly by choosing appropriate practice features to begin with. A 1ft tall curb/step ledge in an open area is ideal.

My Observations

I hate to sound like a broken record, but the old ‘lean back’ creeps back in for many riders here. It’s usually as the front wheel falls off the ledge that’s simultaneously linked with the torso/hips being thrown backwards. Then, the straight arms emerge, leaving no mobility in the upper body. This results in a huge de-stabilization of the rider’s mass. It’s not a controlled move and the success rate is hardly inspiring (“Friday Fails”, anyone?).

The other side to the coin is some riders just don’t have a ‘tool’ to use on these sorts of features, so they avoid them entirely. The roll down is great for approaching new trails or features with confidence, because you’re choosing to do something intentionally. This results in trail progression that isn’t terrifying!

The Roll Down - How It’s Done

Let’s split the roll down into four phases; Slow, peek, poke and absorb. There are a few movements to link together here, so practicing linking them into one fluid motion is essential.

Step One - Slow

Use your brakes to slow down to a walking/slow jogging pace as you approach the feature. Stay centred (chin over stem) in a neutral position. Staying taller lets you see the feature and exit lines. Be prepared to move from this position though, as we’ll need lots of mobility to place the front wheel down in the next step.

Step Two - Peek

Move lower and peek over the feature to spot your line. The rider might end up a little bit forward of centre (look at my chin). Being here puts us in the best place to find maximum range of motion in our arms in following phase. Consider it as a set-up movement.

Step Three - Poke (arms)

Right as the front wheel goes over the edge, poke it down and through the compression with your arms. Keep your torso centred and stable. Draw a line from my hips to my head and notice how it remains still the whole way - the arms do the work to force the wheel down.

Step Four - Absorb (legs)

We need to absorb the back wheel going over the edge with our legs, to address any potential ‘bucking’ and keep us centred. Keep the knees/ankles supple and mobile to do this. When the back wheel touches down, be strong with the legs so you exit with good stability and strength.

Comparison - Driving vs Back Seat

Here’s some side-by-side action of correct vs the common myth of leaning back on a rock roll feature. This is a nasty example - a steep rock roll into a 1ft drop to flat, with a heavy compression.

Notice how correct technique produces a much more stable and centred rider throughout the feature. I deliberately use all the mobility in my limbs to isolate my torso and keep it still. This then lets me stay centred as the bike can freely pitch and move underneath me. On the exit, I’m using the strength in my legs to deal with the compression and quickly recover to a centred position. I’m then set up and prepared to respond to anything that comes next on the trail.

Meanwhile in the back seat, as soon as the front wheel starts to fall away from me, I lose my control of the front wheel. I’m locked out, disconnected, and about to massively de-stabilized. It’s like my bike turns into a big dog that’s just bolted after a rabbit and I’m left desperately trying to hold onto its leash. Less than ideal.

Here’s another example that I put my body on the line for; the ‘lurcher’. Note the rearward shift of my mass as the front wheel drops. This is what happens when you push the front wheel out & away, rather than down. (I had to make that slippery catch berm at the bottom, so I exit correctly).

Focus Points

Think of the roll down as keeping two sides of Velcro stuck together - where your tyre tread is one side, and the trail is the other. We want to keep them stuck together for as long as we can, so we can be in control for longer. Achieving this comes from the poke/absorb, so really zone in on that movement coming from the arms placing the front wheel straight down (not out).
The bigger the roll down, the more range of movement you need to ‘poke’. You’ll see that I get very low for these features, as they are pushing the ‘rollable’ limits (well over 2ft, with some steep entries). For small features, you might not need to be as low to poke as much.
Be prepared for the compression you might encounter as your wheels touch down. Be strong with your limbs when the wheels touch down so you don’t collapse into the compression.
Timing and coordination underpin the success of roll downs. Practice, then practice some more. As the speed, shape and size of your roll down changes you’ll need to change the timing and amount of your movements accordingly. Refine technique by practicing on different features - thus improving adaptability.

Approach with confidence, get in command of that front wheel and be purposeful with your arms push the bike down through the feature.

Enjoy!

These articles are designed to unpack some of the riding theory behind improving your skill set on the bike. If you’re keen to get out there and give them a go, be mindful to choose appropriate terrain (something easy for you, often an open field is a good place to start) and be prepared to feel some funky new sensations as you ride. Feedback is key, so get some footage (or a coach) to guide your journey. These articles are in no way ‘absolute’. Our sport is dynamic and ever changing, so there will always be exceptions to some of these general concepts.

Ride Skills - Can You Roll It?